Amma's
Kitchen.

My grandmother
started this in 1978.

She emigrated from Kochi in the sixties, cooked her way through winter after winter of a city that had never seen a curry leaf, and opened this kitchen the year I was born.

Nearly fifty years later, the recipes haven't moved. The batter still rests overnight. The chutneys are still ground each morning. I add a dish or two every few years — but I wouldn't dare change hers.